What types of olives are there?

In the olive groves of il circolo there are young and old olive trees of different varieties. It is not always easy to identify the olive variety of a tree. But with a trained eye, you can see that the trees differ in their foliage and the fruits in their shape. The varieties also differ in their resistance, their flowering time and in their “rhythm”, i.e. the typical fluctuations in yield. Likewise, the fruits also differ in taste. Before we set out on the trail of the typical Sicilian varieties, we want to say in advance that the olives from which the oil is pressed are often not the same ones that are enjoyed as an aperitif.

Is there a difference between table olives and olives for oil production?

Cultivated olives are used to produce the valuable olive oil, but the fruit of some varieties can also be enjoyed. We distinguish three types of cultivar in olives:

  • “da olio” (“da mola”), which are those used for oil production, 
  • “da tavola” (“da mensa”),which are the table olives suitable for eating,
  • “a duplice attitudine”, which are suitable for both consumption and oil production.

Table olives – da mensa

Italians are not only consumers of olives, but also important producers and exporters. Italy ranks third in Europe in terms of olive production, after Greece and Spain. Many regions throughout Italy contribute to this. Compared to the olive varieties cultivated for oil production, those suitable for consumption tend to be larger and have more flesh with a lower oil content.
Many varieties of “table olives” are grown in Italy, among the most popular are the Ascolana tenera PDO (Marche region) juicy and green, traditionally enjoyed stuffed, breaded and fried; also the green and fleshy Bella di Cerignola PDO and Sant’Agostino (Puglia), and the large green Santa Caterina (Tuscany).

Double use – a duplice attitudine

Among the most famous olives “a duplice attitudine” are the round green PDO Nocellara del Belice (Sicily), the oblong green PDO Moresca (Sicily), the large pink Oliva di Gaeta (or Itrana) (Lazio), the firm black Carolea (Calabria), the large black Giarraffa (Sicily), the black Leccino (Tuscany) and the Taggiasca, a small but incredibly tasty black olive with green, brown and purple nuances.
black and green olives

For oil production – da olio

Cultivars “da olio” have been selected over thousands of years by oil producers who have dedicated themselves to identifying the plants with the best genetic characteristics in terms of resistance to disease and climatic adversity. They have done this by paying attention to details such as the vitality of the foliage, productivity, size of the fruit or oil yield, ease of extraction of the oil itself and its nutritional and organoleptic properties. However, beyond genetic endowment, the positive characteristics of a plant also depend on its interaction with the environment, the type of soil and the microclimate it hosts. In practice, there is a very close relationship between the genetic characteristics of a plant and its environment.

Is there a difference between wild olives and cultivated olive varieties?

The olive as we know it is the fruit of the cultivated olive tree “Olea europaea”, which grows in many countries around the Mediterranean and also in countries with a Mediterranean climate, such as parts of Australia, South Africa and California. The wild form of the tree also produces fruits, but these are very small, unproductive and extremely bitter. For this reason, the systematic grafting of wild trees was begun in ancient times.
grafting olive trees

What is the difference between green and black olives?

In the beginning, olives of all varieties are green, some lighter, some darker. The colour of the olives changes through the year and is green in summer and black-purple in winter. The more advanced the ripening process, the darker the olives become.  Some varieties, when fully ripe, go more purple (e.g. Biancolilla), others more black (e.g. Moresca). In the case of table olives, the black colouring of the skin is the result of oxidation during processing. In certain cases, black olives, especially pitted and dried ones, are artificially blackened with ferrous gluconate (E579). E579 also makes the flesh of the fruit firmer. This additive, which often indicates inferior quality, must always be indicated on the label.

ripe olives

How much does the choice of olive variety influence the quality of the oil?

Experts say that 30 per cent of the quality of the oil is directly related to the variety of olive and 70 per cent of the identity of an oil is influenced by a variety of other factors, such as the health of the olives, the ripeness of the fruit, or even how the oil is extracted.

30% Olive variety

Each olive variety, ‘Cultivar’, has its own flavour profile which is also reflected in the oil produced from it. The characteristics that distinguish the different olive varieties concern not only the quality of the oil, but also more general aspects of the plant’s interaction with the soil and climate, its productivity and oil yield; each variety resists parasite infestation in its own way and has a capacity for plant development that is adapted to the resources of the soil in which it grows. With the same technological standards, the oils produced from different varieties have unique properties in terms of composition, nutritional value and sensory characteristics that can satisfy the tastes of the most demanding and passionate consumers and add that special something to regional dishes.

70% Harvest time and extraction method

  • Timing of oil extraction
    In recent decades, the general trend has been to bring forward the harvest date, because the health of the olives and their ripeness at harvest are important. Overripe fruit is more susceptible to the stress of harvesting and storage that precedes oil extraction at the mill.
  • System of extraction
    Over the years, oil technology has made great strides, especially when, in the second half of the last century, the old traditional oil mills based on the pressure extraction process were replaced by modern centrifugal systems. Technological modernisation has also had an impact on oil storage facilities, which are now made of stainless steel and can be inertised with nitrogen to limit the oil’s contact with atmospheric oxygen and allow the best possible preservation of quality characteristics.
  • Filtering the oil
    Filtering the product allows the organoleptic and beneficial properties of the oil to be preserved and improves the preservation of the oil thanks to the removal of plant water particles and mucilage from the olive pulp. However, it is important that the mechanical filtering is done without heating.
  • The art of oil milling
    The oil miller’s knowledge of technology, extraction and storage temperatures, and filtering is still an important and distinctive element in the quality of the oil. 

Top 4 most popular Sicilian olive varieties

In Sicily there are numerous olive varieties, of which we describe the most important 36 below. We would like to introduce you to the four Sicilian varieties that are cultivated in Val Tellaro and are present in the olive oil of il circolo. Here are their origins and characteristics.

Moresca

Moresca olives

  • Origin: Moresca is a native Sicilian olive variety found mainly in the central and eastern parts of the island. In fact, Moresca trees are found in the olive groves of the provinces of Caltanissetta, Enna, Catania, Siracusa and Ragusa, while outside Sicily it is only found in the Reggio Calabria area.
  • Name: It is also known by other synonyms, such as Aliva Riali and Francofontese in the area of Catania, Bianculidda and Marsalisa in the area of Siracusa, Amoresca and Morghetana in Ragusa or Imperiale and Jannusa in the province of Enna.
  • Uses: It is an olive suitable for the production and sale of extra virgin olive oil, but also for table consumption in both black and green form. It is also a self-sterile variety, generally pollinated by Ogliarola Messinese and Biancolilla.
  • Cultivation peculiarities: The cultivation of this variety is favoured by the good productivity, the low alternance and the excellent flesh to stone ratio, although the oil yield is often not very high. The olives ripen quite early and the transition from green to black is gradual. Unfortunately, it is a variety that is quite sensitive to flies, cottonmouth , the fleotribo beetle as well as peacock moth, lead poisoning and cochineal and therefore requires constant and careful agronomic care, while being very resistant to cold and humidity.

Tonda Iblea olive flowers

  • Origin: Tonda Iblea eine einheimische sizilianische Sorte, die typischerweise im östlichen Teil der Insel wächst. Insbesondere wird das am weitesten verbreitete Gebiet dieser Baumart durch die Provinzen Messina, Catania und Siracusa repräsentiert (aber ihr Vorkommen wurde auch in den Gebieten von Trapani und Agrigento registriert).
  • Name: Ihren Namen hat die Tonda Iblea von den Monte Iblei, der Region wo sie am häufigsten vorkommt. In den Gebieten  um Agrigento ist sie auch unter den Synonymen Giarraffa, Alimena, Bruscarinu, Caloria, Prunara, Tonda Nera und Vitriolo bekannt.
  • Uses: Die Tonda Iblea wird sowohl für den Verzehr bei Tisch als auch für die Herstellung und den Verkauf von nativem Olivenöl extra verwendet, wobei sie aber erst seit kurzem für die Produktion und den Verkauf von monokultiviertem nativem Olivenöl extra genutzt wird. Es ist ein Öl mit einer Reihe von typisch sizilianischen Aromen. Zunächst einmal ist das Olivenöl recht intensiv, begleitet von einem Bouquet sehr unterschiedlicher Düfte wie Tomate, Mandel, Artischocke, geschnittenes Gras und aromatische Kräuter. Der Geschmack ist sehr harmonisch mit einer Dominanz von süßen und würzigen Aromen und einer sehr leichten Bitterkeit.
  • Cultivation peculiarities: Die Tonda Iblea findet ihren idealen Standort in hügeligen Gebieten bis zu einer Höhe von etwa 600 Metern über dem Meeresspiegel und ist daher eine Sorte, die sehr kälteresistent ist. Es handelt sich auch um eine Sorte, die Fliegenbefall erschwert und den Verzicht auf den Einsatz von Pestiziden ermöglicht. Die Resistenz gegen Bleisamen und Cottonmouth ist ebenfalls sehr gut, während sie gegen Cochenille, Verticillose, Lepra und Pfauenauge als schwach bekannt ist. Da es sich um eine selbstinkompatible Sorte handelt, werden zur Bestäubung die Sorten Moresca und Calatina verwendet.

Biancolilla

  • Origin: Biancolilla wird hauptsächlich in den westlichen Provinzen Siziliens (Palermo, Agrigento und dem Gebiet von Caltabellotta) angebaut, ist aber auch auf der Ostseite der Insel zu finden. Sie gilt als eine der ältesten einheimischen sizilianischen Sorten, die derzeit in italienischen Olivenhainen zu finden sind. Die Biancolilla-Olive wird wegen ihrer hohen Produktivität und bemerkenswerten Rustikalität sehr geschätzt.
  • Name: Ihren Namen verdankt sie der Tatsache, dass sich die Steinfrüchte während der Reifung von der typischen grünen Farbe der unreifen Frucht zu einem ins Violette tendierenden Rotton verändern. Sie ist auch unter anderen Namen bekannt (Bianca, Bianchetto, Biancolina, Imperialidda, Jancuzza, Marmorina, Napoletana, Pruscarina, Siracusana, um nur die bekanntesten zu nennen). 
  • Uses: Diese Sorte ist eine reines cultivar “da olio” und wird eigentlich nicht für den Verzehr bei Tisch verwendet, ist aber für die Ölproduktion sehr wertvoll. Biancolilla extra natives Olivenöl gilt als sehr wertvoll und ist für den Verkauf sehr gut geeignet. Das Pressen der Oliven dieser Biancolilla-Sorte ergibt ein Öl, das viele der typischen Aromen der sizilianischen Lebensmittelproduktion enthält. Von grüner oder strohgelber Farbe mit vage goldenen Schattierungen, zeichnet sich dieses Öl durch eine leichte, leicht würzige und sehr aromatische Fruchtigkeit aus, in der sich die Düfte von Mandel, Tomate und Artischocke erkennen lassen, kombiniert mit Aromen von frischem Gras und grüner Olive, wobei es je nach Unterart und den verwendeten Bestäubern Unterschiede geben kann. Biancolilla wird häufig sowohl in sortenreinen nativen Ölen extra als auch in Verschnitten verwendet, um den Geschmack anderer Ölsorten zu harmonisieren. In der Küche eignet sich das Öl der Sorte Biancolilla hervorragend zum Würzen von Fisch- oder Gemüsegerichten und kann auch in Desserts verwendet werden, da es ein effektiver Ersatz für Butter oder Kernöl ist.
  • Cultivation peculiarities: Es handelt sich um eine Sorte, die auch auf hohen Hügeln mit wenig Wasser recht widerstandsfähig ist, ein Faktor, der sie ideal für die trockenen Böden macht, die für Sizilien typisch sind, vor allem dank einer ihrer Hauptbesonderheiten, nämlich ihrer Fähigkeit, sehr tiefe Wurzeln auszubreiten, die es ihr ermöglichen, die für ihren Unterhalt notwendigen Wasserquellen zu erreichen. Biancolilla-Oliven sind selbstfruchtbar, d.h. sie benötigen keine Bestäubung durch andere Sorten, weshalb sie oft als Bestäuber für die selbststerile Nocellara del Belice verwendet werden. Häufig werden jedoch Sorten wie Cerasuola und Nocellara Messinese verwendet, die mit Biancolilla als Bestäuber vergesellschaftet sind und die Aromen des daraus gewonnenen Öls stark beeinflussen.

Pizzutella

  • Origin: The name of the Pizzutella olive, which is also used as a synonym for other varieties, refers to a typically Sicilian autochthonous variety which, although it occurs in various parts of the island, such as Catania, Syracuse, Messina and Ragusa, as well as in Calabria, is in any case on the list of neglected olive varieties.
  • Name: The Pizzutella variety is also known as Pizziricò and Pizzutedda.
  • Uses: Pizzutella is a single-purpose variety, i.e. it is used exclusively for the production and sale of extra virgin olive oil.
  • Cultivation peculiarities: Mainly present on coastal slopes, Pizzutella tolerates humidity and wind quite well. However, being a very fragile olive tree species, it requires constant care and traditional methods are preferred for harvesting, without the use of mechanical equipment, as this could damage the plant or affect the quality of the fruit and thus the oil. The reasons for its inclusion on the list of neglected olive varieties are, on the one hand, its self-incompatibility, which forces agronomists to resort to other varieties for pollination, and, on the other hand, its rather low oil yield (less than 16%) and its not very high productivity, which varies greatly from year to year. In addition, trees of this variety tend to suffer greatly from infestation by the day peacock and are very susceptible to olive fly infestation.

What does monocultivar mean?

The term “cultivar” is derived from the amalgamation of two English words, cultivated variety, and is used in agronomy to describe a particular variety of a plant. Within olive cultivation there are many cultivars and many of them are found in Italy, which has always been one of the world’s leading producers of extra virgin olive oil. When an olive oil is made from the olives of a single cultivar, this oil is called “monocultivar”.

The 36 most important olive varieties of Sicily

Sicily’s geographical and climatic variations have given rise to an extraordinary diversity of indigenous olive cultivars with distinct flavors and characteristics. The exact number of olive varieties cultivated on the island may vary according to the source. However, it is estimated that there are more than 40 distinct olive cultivars grown in Sicily. These cultivars differ in terms of size, shape, color, flavor, and oil content. Some varieties are specific to certain regions or towns within Sicily, showcasing the unique terroir and microclimates of the island. The abundance of olive varieties in Sicily contributes to the region’s rich olive oil heritage and culinary traditions. The most important varieties found in Sicilian olive groves:

Dop regions for sicilian olive oils

– Aitana

This is an olive variety that is somewhat patchy in Italy and Sicily, as it is a neglected variety that has not been widely distributed. In Sicily, the Aitana olive is mainly used for the production and sale of extra virgin olive oil, but it can also be eaten at the table.

– Biancolilla

An indigenous variety that produces an olive with low acidity. It is found in the western part of the island as well as in the central-eastern areas. Biancolilla olives produce a delicate and fruity oil with a light golden color. The flavor profile is often described as mild and sweet, with hints of herbs and almonds.

– Bottone di Gallo

This olive variety is considered a pure cultivar “da olio”, i.e. its production is exclusively for the production of extra virgin olive oil from Sicily and is considered a neglected and little used variety, although its oil is very valuable.

– Brandofino

A smaller, indigenous variety that is offered for sale both in the form of extra virgin olive oil from Sicily and in fine blends of Sicilian olive oil. The oil of the Brandofino variety, which is most common in eastern Sicily, is characterised by a flavour that can be slightly spicy.

– Buscionetto

The Buscionetto olive is considered a neglected and endangered variety and is used exclusively for the extraction of extra virgin olive oil and for the production of blends of fine oils. It is native to the province of Agrigento, but can also be found in the olive groves of Trapani and Palermo.

– Calamignara

Calamignara is an indigenous olive variety with dual uses; it is a variety whose olives are large and can also be used for eating. But the Calamignara is also an excellent olive for extra virgin olive oil.

– Calatina

An indigenous variety, but of little importance in the Sicilian olive scene. The Calatina olive is a single-purpose olive and is used exclusively to produce Sicilian extra virgin olive oil for sale. It is not very widespread and is mainly found in the areas around Catania and Caltagirone.

– Carolea

With the olive of the Carolea variety, it is possible to obtain both table olives and an excellent Sicilian extra virgin olive oil. While Carolea olives are traditionally associated with Calabria, they are also grown in Sicily, particularly in the province of Messina. This variety produces medium to large-sized olives with a high oil content. The resulting oil has a fruity and slightly spicy flavor.

– Castriciana Rapparina

It is a very rare olive variety, now threatened with extinction, although it is native to Sicily and comes from the municipality of Castroreale in the province of Messina. It is also present in the Palermo area and can be found on the market for Sicilian extra virgin olive oil.

– Cavalieri

The Cavalieri variety is not very widespread, so it is considered a neglected variety. However, it produces an excellent Sicilian extra virgin olive oil and is mainly found in the areas of the province of Catania, specifically in the olive groves near Caltagirone.

– Cerasuola

This is certainly one of the most widespread olive varieties in Sicily and can indeed be found in many areas without any particular difficulty. Cerasuola olives are not eaten at the table but pressed to produce and sell Sicilian extra virgin olive oil. Cerasuola olives are medium-sized olives that are highly valued for their high oil content. They produce a fruity and slightly peppery oil with a greenish color.

– Citral

This type of olive tree is native to Sicily but has been neglected over time. In fact, it has shown some intrinsic weaknesses to diseases that have hindered its spread. Citral is used exclusively for the production of extra virgin olive oil.

– Crastu

The Crastu olive is considered a secondary variety and grows mainly in the Madonie mountains and on the Tyrrhenian side of Messina, where this variety originates. The Crastu variety is a variety from which oil is extracted, both extra virgin and for the production of excellent blends.

– Erbano

This is a variety found in the olive groves of the Palermo and Agrigento area. The olives are pressed to obtain Sicilian extra virgin olive oil of excellent quality and with a very balanced and pleasant taste and smell profile.

– Giarraffa

This is a dual-purpose olive variety (these olives are used to produce both Sicilian extra virgin olive oil and table olives) with very ancient origins that, according to some reconstructions that are not always accepted, could date back to the Sicani period. They are found mainly in western Sicily in the areas of Trapani, Agrigento and Palermo. Giarraffa olives are large-sized olives and produce a fragrant and fruity oil with a slightly spicy aftertaste.

– Lumiaru

This variety is not very widespread and is found mainly in the Agrigento and Catania areas. It produces an extra virgin oil with low acidity, although the plant’s fruits tends to ripen late.

– Mandanici

The olives of the native Sicilian variety Mandanici can be recognised by the small size of the stone fruits and are grown in the areas of Catania and Messina, but also in Calabria. It is a disposable variety (it is actually only used for the sale of Sicilian extra virgin olive oil) and grows mainly on sandy soils or with calcareous subsoil and lack of water.

– Minuta

It is a typical olive variety from Messina and is almost absent from the rest of Sicily, while it is abundant in the olive groves of Nebrodi. It tolerates low temperatures well and is indeed found on medium-hilly terrain up to 800 metres above sea level, where it produces a rather rustic extra virgin olive oil.

– Moresca

This is a variety of olive found mainly in the central and eastern provinces of Sicily, where the Moresca olive originates. The medium size makes this olive an excellent food for table consumption, either green or black, but when the fruit is pressed it also makes an excellent Sicilian extra virgin olive oil. They are known for producing oil with a pronounced and robust flavor, characterized by herbal and artichoke notes.

– Mothia

Mothia olives are grown on the island of San Pantaleo, near the city of Marsala in western Sicily. These olives are small and produce a delicate oil with a slightly sweet taste.

– Murtiddara

The Murtiddara is a rather rare and neglected variety that can nevertheless be found in various parts of Sicily. Being self-sterile, it is pollinated by the Carolea variety and its use is limited exclusively to pressing for the production and sale of extra virgin olive oil.

– Nasitana

This olive variety takes its name from the town from which it originates according to tradition, namely the municipality of Naso in the province of Messina. This is also the area where this variety is most widespread and, thanks to its good resistance to cold, it is also easy to find on the hills of the Nebrodi mountains.

– Nerba

This is a dual-purpose olive variety, as the size of the fruit, which is rich in pulp, allows it to be eaten both at the table and in the form of extra virgin olive oil from Sicily. This variety is sensitive to beetle and fly infestation and yields an olive oil with low acidity.

– Nocellara del Belice

An autochthonous variety, much appreciated both for its flesh, which can be eaten at the table, and for its excellent extra virgin olive oil with very low acidity. It is very common in the Trapani area, but also grows without particular difficulty in the Palermo and Agrigento areas. This is one of the most famous and widely cultivated olive varieties in Sicily. It produces large, meaty olives with a mild and buttery flavor.

– Nocellara Etnea

 Nocellara Etnea olives are cultivated on the slopes of Mount Etna in eastern Sicily. They are large-sized olives with a unique flavor profile characterized by hints of almond and artichoke. They are used for oil production as well as table olives.  This variety is very resistant to weather conditions and cold waves and typical of the interior and eastern areas of Sicily.

– Nocellara Messinese

This olive is characterised by a very large size and a colour tending towards purple during the ripening phase and is used both for table consumption and for the production and sale of extra virgin olive oil. Its distribution is concentrated in the area of Catania, Siracusa and Messina, hence the name.

olive oil taste per variety

– Ogliarola Messinese

This is also an olive variety typical of the Messina area, which can also be found in the olive groves of the province of Palermo. This variety is used for the production of green and black table olives and extra virgin olive oil.

– Ottobratica

The olive of this variety is used exclusively for the production of extra virgin olive oil. It is widespread in the Messina area, especially along the coastal slope above the Ionian Sea, and has a certain resistance to bad weather and cold.

– Passulunara

This is a dual-purpose olive, larger than average, that produces an extra virgin olive oil from Sicily with low acidity and high antioxidant and vitamin E content. Passulunara is a variety typically found in the olive groves near Palermo and Agrigento.

– Piricuddara

This olive variety is typical of the Agrigento area, where it is used to produce extra virgin olive oil with low acidity, while the small size of the fruit prevents it from being eaten as a table olive. However, it is also found in the olive-growing areas of Palermo and Caltanissetta and is often used as a pollinator for the Nocellara del Belice.

– Pizzutella

This native Sicilian variety is found in the areas of Catania, Siracusa and Ragusa, but also in Calabria. It is used exclusively for the production of extra virgin olive oil, which is characterised by a balanced taste and is very popular with the public.

– San Benedetto

A neglected olive variety native to Sicily, found in the areas from Trapani to Messina, especially in the Tyrrhenian coastal areas. Due to its medium size, the San Benedetto variety is used not only for the production and sale of extra virgin olive oil, but also for table consumption.

– Sant’Agatese

Also known by various synonyms, the Sant’Agatese olive is an indigenous variety, native to the area around the town of Sant’Agata di Militello in northeastern Sicily. It is found in both the west and east of Sicily. This variety is characterised by the production of medium to large fruits and is used to produce delicious table olives and an excellent Sicilian extra virgin olive oil, which is characterized by fruity and herbaceous notes.

– Tonda Iblea

As the name suggests, this native Sicilian olive variety is typical of the Monti Iblei area in the southeastern part of the island and can also grow on high hills up to about 600 metres above sea level. It is a dual-purpose variety with very pulpy fruits that can be eaten green or black. Tonda Iblea olives are small to medium-sized and yield an oil with a fruity aroma and a balanced, slightly spicy flavor.

– Vaddarica

The Vaddarica variety, mainly found on the Tyrrhenian coast between Palermo and Messina, is an indigenous variety, but neglected and therefore not very present in the rest of Sicily. The fruits of this variety produce an extra virgin olive oil with typical Sicilian flavours and low acidity.

– Verdello

This is a very rare olive variety whose occurrence is mainly concentrated in the Messina area. The fruits are medium-sized and are used exclusively for pressing for the production and sale of Sicilian extra virgin olive oil with low acidity.

– Verdese

Verdese olives are mainly grown in western Sicily. They are small to medium-sized olives and are valued for their high oil content. The resulting oil is known for its fruity and slightly bitter taste.

Curious about extra virgin olive oil from the Moresca variety?

Then you’ve come to the right place. You can find our organic extra virgin olive oil from the Moresca variety in our webshop. It is D.O.P. certified and of highest quality. We import the olive oil ourselves from Sicily and can therefore guarantee the best quality. Take a look at our webshop and get to know our products!

 

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