Olive oil fraud: protecting the purity of a timeless tradition

In the tranquil groves where olive trees have flourished for centuries, a quiet struggle continues to shadow the industry — olive oil fraud.
This deceptive practice, from mislabeling to dilution with inferior oils, undermines the integrity of honest producers and misleads consumers seeking authentic extra virgin olive oil.

At il circolo, our mission is to protect the purity of true olive oil. Shedding light on this issue isn’t just a matter of quality — it’s about preserving heritage and trust.

Understanding olive oil fraud

Olive oil fraud takes many forms. The most common include selling lower-grade oils as extra virgin, blending olive oil with cheaper vegetable oils, or falsely claiming a prestigious regional origin.

These tactics don’t just affect quality — they pose health risks and damage the reputation of entire regions known for producing exceptional olive oil.

The impact on honest producers

Fraudulent products create unfair competition, driving down prices and threatening the livelihood of authentic olive oil producers.
The consequences extend beyond the market — they erode cultural craftsmanship and centuries of tradition built around olive cultivation.

Authentic producers, dedicated to maintaining high standards, find themselves competing against unfairly priced, inferior products. This risks the reputation of regions historically renowned for their olive oil.

How olive oil fraud is detected

Science and technology now play a vital role in fighting olive oil fraud. Detecting adulteration requires both laboratory precision and sensory expertise.

Common detection techniques

• Fatty Acid & Sterol Analysis: Identifies adulteration through unique olive oil profiles.
• UV Absorption & PPA Tests: Detect refined or oxidized oils.
• DNA & Isotope Testing: Verify olive variety and geographic origin.
• NMR & HPLC Analysis: Examine molecular composition and antioxidant levels.
• Sensory Evaluation: Expert panels assess aroma and flavor for extra virgin standards.
• Blockchain Traceability: Improves transparency from grove to bottle.

Regular and rigorous testing is essential to combat olive oil fraud and protect both consumers and honest producers. Additionally, regulatory bodies and certifications like PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) and PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) play a crucial role in ensuring that olive oils come from genuine regions and meet strict quality standards.

A historical overview

Olive oil fraud isn’t a contemporary issue. It has been a persistent challenge, evolving over the centuries. Understanding its history offers valuable insights into how this problem has grown and changed, reflecting broader changes in food production and regulation, as well as the evolving methods of deception in the industry. Here are some notable instances:

1. The Toxic Oil Syndrome (1981, Spain): In one of the most tragic events related to olive oil fraud, almost 700 people died in Spain due to the consumption of rapeseed oil adulterated with aniline, intended for use as an industrial lubricant but sold as olive oil​​.
2. Rubino U.S.A. Inc. (1993, USA): The FDA ordered a recall of olive oils from Rubino U.S.A. Inc., which turned out to be nothing more than canola oil​​.
3. Canadian Food Inspection Agency Findings (1997-1999): The Canadian Food Inspection Agency conducted tests on oils claimed to be 100% olive oil and concluded in 1999 that 20% of these oils were fake​​.
4. EU Agricultural Fraud (2007): NPR reported in 2007 that adulterated olive oil had become the biggest source of agricultural fraud problems in the European Union. This included cases where oils labeled “extra-virgin” were diluted with cheaper olive oils or other vegetable oils, and even the use of lampante oil, which is not fit for consumption​​.
5. Major Italian Shippers’ Adulteration (2007): The New Yorker in August 2007 reported that major Italian shippers routinely adulterated olive oil, with only about 40% of the oil sold as “extra virgin” actually meeting the specification. This extensive fraud led the Italian government to mandate a new labeling law​​.
6. Operation Golden Oil (2008, Italy): In March 2008, 400 Italian police officers conducted “Operation Golden Oil,” arresting 23 people and confiscating 85 farms after uncovering a large-scale scheme to relabel oils from other Mediterranean nations as Italian​​.
7. Danish Supermarkets Incident (2017): A report revealed that in 2017, only six out of 35 sampled extra virgin olive oils sold in Danish supermarkets were actually extra virgin​​.
8. Fraud in Greece (Year unspecified): Greek police arrested seven people for adding green dye to sunflower oil and marketing it as olive oil​​.
9. Spanish Olive Oil Cooperative Fine (2018): In Spain, the world’s largest olive oil cooperative was fined in 2018 for not paying tariffs on imported olive oil from Tunisia, which was then blended with lower quality olive oil and exported to the United States as virgin olive oil​​.

These examples highlight the necessity of vigilance and strict regulations to combat olive oil fraud and protect both consumers and genuine producers. In fact, “olive oil has remained one of the most mislabeled food items on the continent, according to the European Commission’s 2022 report on food safety.” (1)

Recent scandals in the olive oil industry serve as stark reminders of the ongoing battle against fraud. These case studies not only highlight the cunning methods used by fraudsters but also emphasize the importance of vigilance and strict quality control. (2)

Empowering consumers to choose authentic olive oil

Knowledge is the best defense against olive oil fraud. Here’s how consumers can protect themselves:

1. Read labels carefully and check harvest or bottling dates.
2. Look for certifications such as PDO or PGI.
3. Buy from trusted, transparent producers who trace their supply chain.
4. Learn to taste the difference — real extra virgin olive oil has natural bitterness, fruitiness, and a peppery finish.

At il circolo, we encourage awareness and transparency.
When you choose authentic olive oil, you’re supporting sustainable agriculture and preserving an ancient cultural legacy.

A hopeful future for authentic olive oil

Despite its persistence, olive oil fraud is being met with stronger regulation, modern science, and technological innovation.
Blockchain systems, DNA-based origin verification, and improved laboratory testing are making it harder for fraudulent oils to pass as authentic.

At il circolo, we remain committed to producing olive oil that reflects integrity, tradition, and the pure expression of the olive itself. Together — producers, regulators, and consumers — we can protect this golden elixir for generations to come.

Sources

1. The New York Times “68,000 Gallons of ‘Unfit’ Olive Oil Seized by Italy and Spain”
2. European Commission 2022 Annual Report “Alert and Cooperation Network“
3. Wikipedia: Olive oil regulation and adulteration